Being a good DJ not only consists of skill. Appearance plays a key part in making an event memorable for the client. Im not just talking about Individual appearance which is important, im referring to the state of your equipment. Even though you may look good, a sloppy set up can kill the vibe of the event. This is something I needed to fix for my own setup. I got tired of trying to hide wires and wanted a cleaner look. After watching countless instructional videos on YouTube on how to build a DJ facade I decided to give it a shot and build my own. There are some really nice facades available for sale on the market but can be quite costly. I built mine for about $110.00 as opposed to purchasing one new for 400-600 dollars. I couldn’t find any step by step instructions that were non video so I decided to write one up and share it.
Purchased from Home Depot
12 piece bundle of 1 X 3 X 8 wood. (When purchasing your wood give it a quick look ensure that it is not dinged up too much)
4 cans of Rustoleum Painters Touch Ultra Cover x 2 Semi Gloss Black Spray Paint
32 One Inch Corner Brackets
4 X 3″ Satin Nickel Non-Mortise Hinges
Gorilla Wood Glue
Stanley Deluxe Mitre Box With Saw
Staple Gun and T-50 Staples
Large Box of #10 X 3/4 ” Wood Screws
2 X 2 pack 3″ Non Mortise Hinges Qty of 4
Purchased from Joanne’s Fabrics
The first step is cutting the boards to size. (Note) If you have or can afford a powered compound mitre saw I highly recommend it as time and a lot of sweat will be saved. The frames I made were 4′ high and 3′ wide. You want to cut a quantity of 8 boards that are 4′ feet long each and 8 boards that are 3′ long each.
Once you cut the length of your boards you will then cut 45 degree corners so that the boards can be glued together and connected with your corner brackets. The Stanley Mitre box made cutting the 45 degree angles easy with its included plastic locking bolts.
I then laid the boards on my garage floor and glued the corners together allowing the glue to dry for one day. The Gorilla Glue holds very well once applied. As long as you glue on a level surface the boards should stay together perfectly.
Once the glue has dried you want to apply your corner brackets. This was done by applying the bracket in its respected area and then pencil marking the holes so that you can pre drill for your screws. This is also highly recommended. If you skip this step and don’t pre drill, your wood may spilt when tightening the brackets with your wood screws.
After applying the brackets I gave the rough areas of the wood a light sanding. This is not necessary but will give a better finish to the paint. Then frames were then cleaned off with a wet dry vac and a cloth to remove sawdust. A coat of paint was applied to each board and then I allowed the paint to dry for one day.
After letting the paint dry for a day I attached the Non-mortise hinges.
The reason I went with the Non-mortise hinges is that these hinges fold together into the hinge itself allowing an almost flush fold when transporting. Ensure that the hinges are mounted on the side of the frame that does not look to good. The side that will be facing you the DJ and not your audience. I measured in about 9″ to 10″ for where the hinge would be mounted. Judge for yourself where you feel comfortable for placement.
After mounting the hinges I gave the audience side of the frame one more look over, sanded again where necessary, cleaned off and repainted. As long as the DJ side has a coat of paint that is fine. No one will see it any ways. I then let the frames dry another whole day before applying the lycra/spandex.
Applying the Lycra is not as bad as you would think it is. I laid my hinged frame on a flat surface. I used a table. One thing I will stress is that make sure the paint on your frames is dry before applying. Get out your lycra ensuring that everything around you is relatively clean not to dirty the material. What I did was drape one end of the lycra over the frame end you want to start with first. Preferably one of the corners on the 4′ frame portion.
Once you have the Lycra lined up apply 3 to 4 staples in one corner about midway between the 3″width of the board. (see image) Then move down to the bottom of that board pulling slightly tight but not too tight on your material while stapling the opposite end the same way. You will see the lycra pulling at the other end this is ok.
Once you staple your other corners ensure that you are pulling slightly tighter and the creases will dissapear. Once you have all corners stapled you can then work your way around stapling the lycra down. I recommend pulling and then moving your staple gun along and stapling away. This way you can ensure that the material is taut and no creases will be exposed. If you can get someone to help you tighten your material while stapling I recommend doing so.
Once you have the lycra applied to your frame you can then cut off your excess material. I cut the attached end of the material off first and then worked my way around cutting off the excess.
Once the material is applied you are finished with your project. I have a pair of Chavet Colorstrip Mini DMX LED Wash Light Bars that I used to get the desired effect pictured. My next project will be making a bag to hold the frames so that they are protected during transport. Hit the green box to the top left of the post to leave a comment. If you want to see more images of this facade and some video mixes hit the link below at https://www.facebook.com/djcraiggrant and like the page.
My next build will be six fold facade which can fit easily in any vehicle.
If you have any questions or are interested in having a facade built contact me at email@example.com
If you want to see more pics of the facade in use check out
While your there please “like” my page.
These are the Chauvet lights used in the images of the Facade above. Click on the light below for a discounted link to Amazon.
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